![]() ![]() Since there is little pitting, it won't take much to remove the surface rust. The key is "Gently", as we don't want to remove the case hardening, as it is very difficult to re-do. The trick is to rub very, very gently, with a lot of WD-40 on the surface. ![]() To get the surface rust off the receiver, I used some Very Fine steel wool and some WD-40. This is a fine old gun, and was made back when they took some pride in their work.įirst, I took it all apart, to allow cleaning and refinishing. The receiver is case hardened, but had some slight surface rust, but no really bad pitting. It had one place where the finish was worn off the stock, but that is easy to fix. ![]() I got it home and decided to refinish this fine old gun to its former glory. I finally convinced them that those were the only identifiers there were. This one had four letters marked in a couple of places and that was it. ![]() It took a little while to fill out the yellow form, as this shotgun was made before shotguns had serial numbers on them. She said, "That will be fine." I told her to wrap it up. But, since I never pay full price at a pawn shop, I told her, "I'd like to make you an offer. It had a couple of dings in the stock, but it was obvious that they had mis-priced the gun. It was an Iver Johnson Cycle Works, Champion 20 gauge shotgun. She handed it to me and I couldn't believe what I saw. I saw a rack of shotguns in one pawn shop and saw a single barrel shotgun with a price tag that read $79.95 on it. I went to visit my buddy Ted in Temple, Texas and he and I made our usual pawn shop visits, looking for deals. I decided I'd be on the lookout for a nice 20 gauge single shot for his first shotgun. We had fun, but the double barreled shotgun he was using was kind of heavy for him. I recently took my stepson Abel out to shoot shotguns, as he had never shot a shotgun at an aerial target before. ![]()
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